
Picture: Rafael Albaladejo (Pixabay)
MAKING marmalade is a simple, if sticky, pleasure. There’s shredding of peel to be done. Much as there is shredding of truth to be done when boiling up an anti-Labour story about marmalade and the EU.
I’ve been meaning to make another batch for a while. Other things keep getting in the way, including writing about not getting round to making marmalade.
Having once followed the traditional recipe, toiling over the pot in January after the bitter fruit arrives from Spain, I now buy a tin of prepared Seville oranges, to which water and sugar are added.
My version also contains whisky, as should all good things, including once a week the writer of these words.
What with everything going on in the world – and, no, I don’t wish to mention the marmalade-hued mad man-baby at the moment, as thinking about that irredeemably awful man too often is harmful to one’s health – you might have thought marmalade would be relegated to a tittle-tattle paragraph.
That would be to reckon without the mad right-wingers and their backers in the usual suspect newspapers. That crew like nothing more than bashing Keir Starmer while supposedly sticking up for great British traditions.
Yet marmalade, you will not be surprised to learn, originated elsewhere, with most sources pointing to the Portuguese word Marmelos, a quince paste popular long before marmalade became commercial in the late 18th century.
Personally, I wouldn’t recognise a quince if one hit me on the head. But I can spot a story heated up way beyond boiling point.
The BBC first gave this agglutinative pot a mischievous stir, reporting on its website that as part of a planned food deal with the EU, the UK was considering aligning with the bloc’s naming rules.
These allow all conserves to be marketed as marmalades – as long as the type of fruit is specified. For example, citrus-based conserves being labelled “citrus marmalade”.
Or orange marmalade being labelled as, er, orange marmalade, as it always has been.
Never mind that, there was a backlash to be lashed. Reform UK’s Richard Tice said: “Hands off our marmalade!”, possibly while having breakfast in Dubai, where he spends much of his time. For the Tories, Dame Priti Patel had a breakfast burp: “Labour is now attacking the great British marmalade!”
Warning: marmalade may also contain exclamation marks. And be sold to you by nuts.
So the people who flogged us the non-existent benefits of Brexit are now furious about marmalade. Except they’re not, not really. What they are cross about is almost nobody now thinks Brexit was a good idea. According to a recent YouGov poll, 56 per cent of voters believe Britain should not have voted to leave the EU.
All sensible people should surely now be happy to see stronger ties with Europe being reestablished. Whatever marmalade is called. Especially if it’s still being called marmalade.
With sticky-pawed predictability, the Daily Mail dragged Paddington Bear into the non-story about marmalade. While forgetting that the bear from Peru was a refugee who benefited from the kindness of strangers and stands as a symbol of humanity.
The author Michael Bond drew on his wartime memories of evacuees and refugees to create Paddington, saying: “We took in some Jewish children who often sat in front of the fire every evening, quietly crying because they had no idea what had happened to their parents, and neither did we at the time. It’s the reason why Paddington arrived with the label around his neck”.
So the story about marmalade was fake – and calling on the lover of marmalade sandwiches as a witness was typically shoddy.
As the ursine one himself has been heard to say: “Things are always happening to me. I’m that sort of bear.”










